Chilean Arpilleras: The Underrated Textile Art of South America
Recently I was asked to provide a textiles workshop on identity to my local art gallery. What better subject to be inspired by than Chilean arpilleras? The photos you see throughout this piece are examples of the work created at the workshop, by ages ranging from 6-60.
Arpilleras are a colourful, traditional tapestry or embroidered patchwork that originated in Chile. These unique pieces of stitched or embroidered art are not only beautiful in appearance but also have an unexpected and significant history surrounding them.
Arpilleras are made by sewing together different ribbons and fabrics, creating a multi-layered appliqué patchwork. Recycled fabrics like old skirts, handkerchiefs, and even burlap sacks are often used to create the patchwork. The designs are then sewn on to add texture and depth to the piece. The pieces range from depictions of everyday life, such as street vendors and families spending time together, to more political themes. These intricately designed tapestries serve as windows into the lives of Chileans, reflecting the struggles and joys of daily life.
While traditional arpilleras display an array of themes, they became especially significant during the regime of Augusto Pinochet in Chile. Pinochet was a military dictator who ruled Chile from 1973 to 1990. During his reign, many Chileans were subjected to torture, imprisonment, and exile. Arpilleras became a means of documenting the political and social realities of the time, as artists used them to convey messages about the abuses of power and the impact they had on individuals and communities.
These particular arpilleras would depict scenes of women protesting, people in hiding, or schools and hospitals destroyed during the dictatorship. In many instances, arpilleras also conveyed the struggles of searching for a missing relative, who may have been taken by the regime's forces or were in hiding.
Women in Chile crafted and exchanged arpilleras as a way to express their emotions and to raise awareness about their suffering under the Pinochet regime. Because of their nature as women’s textile art, they were often dismissed by men in power and so could be distributed unnoticed into South America, helping to spread a message of what life under the regime was really like. They were also sold to sympathetic visitors, such as government officials and members of the church, in order to help make ends meet. In this way, these pieces of art also became a means of economic empowerment for Chilean women, who otherwise were financially dependent on their husbands.
Arpilleras from the period of Pinochet's regime have since become part of Chilean history. They are continues to serve as reminders of the resilience and creativity of a group of people who refused to sit still or be silenced even under the worst conditions. The tapestries not only capture a piece of Chilean history through their designs but also demonstrate the ongoing power of art to help us better understand and recount our collective stories.
Rachel Anderson